CULTURE & SURROUNDINGS

The seaside village of Zoagli hugs the eastern Ligurian Riviera, perched on cliffs with Portofino to the north and the Cinque Terre to the south. This stretch of Ligurian coast, the Gulf of Tigullio, has long been celebrated for its romanticism, attracting British Grand Tour travelers and writers — most famously Lord Byron, who, in between composing poems and odes to the surrounding nature, swam the length of its bays and beaches.

Writers and writings

Countless writers were inspired by the steep coastline and lush greenery, choosing to take up residence along its shores.Nietzsche began writing Zarathustra here in 1883, followed by Guy de Maupassant in 1889, Oscar Wilde in 1899.

The beginnings of villeggiatura

At the turn of the 20th century, the Gulf of Tigullio and towns such as Rapallo began to enter the itineraries of Europe’s good society. Drawn by the mild climate, dramatic coastline and discreet elegance, writers, aristocrats and early travellers embraced the practice of villeggiatura, helping to position Italy as a cultivated and highly desirable destination. Travel here was unhurried, seasonal and social — a way of life rather than a pastime.

The Belle Époque

The momentum continued through the 1920s and 1930s, when the area took on a distinctly chic character. As modern leisure and the idea of “vacation” emerged, the Riviera became a place to see and be seen, balancing refinement with ease. Hotels, villas and seaside rituals reflected a new elegance — informal yet assured — that still defines the spirit of the coast today.

Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, the founder of Futurism, brought the art to Liguria in 1912. One of the movement’s earliest shows, Genoa hosted the Futurist exhibition at the Società Promotrice di Belle Arti, where works by Boccioni, Carrà, Russolo, and Severini scandalized and electrified the public.

From the 1930s, the Futurists found a home in Albisola, further along the Ligurian coast, where the Futurist poet Tullio Mazzotti transformed his family’s ceramics workshop into a manufacture and hub for artists of Futurism as well as other later radicals like Lucio Fontana and Asger Jorn.

Pound and Hemingway

Ezra Pound settled in Tigullio, where Ernest Hemingway sought him out in 1922 when he was sent on assignment to cover the post-War accords made there in nearby Rapallo. The two writers famously got drunk on rum cocktails (“À la vie e à Rapallo!” they toasted), and Pound gave the young Hemingway the introductions he needed to publish his first novel.

Modern times

In more recent days, with centuries of history and stunning nature, the nearby coast of Liguria offers unparalleled destinations to explore.
Portofino, with its glamorous port, has been home to exclusive restaurants, a turquoise-watered marine reserve, and a nature reserve full of hiking paths just past the town’s colorful beachfront center.

The 1000-year-old San Fruttuoso abbey

At the tip of Portofino’s promontory, is one of Italy’s most unusual places to visit, with the possibility of a remarkable snorkeling visit to Christ of the Abyss. The town of Camogli along the shore retaining its fishing village charm.
South along the coast, the Cinque Terre, including well-known draws like romantic Vernazza as well as less-visited gems like Portovenere and the island of Palmaria, offers rugged cliffs, crystal seas, and picturesque villages.

Nearby Rapallo

Unfolds with a quiet charm: historic villas, palm-lined promenades and landmarks such as the Castello di Punta Pagana, pictured here, rising directly from the sea and anchoring the town’s layered history.
Liguria consistently claims more of Italy’s coveted Bandiere Blu for pristine waters than any other region, while also enjoying the country’s mildest year-round climate — a rare combination that continues to define life along this coast.

Entroterra

Just inland, the Ligurian entroterra (the back country) reveals a quieter counterpoint to the coast. Stone villages sit among olive groves and terraced hills, where time moves at a gentler pace.
This is a landscape shaped by craftsmanship and patience offering a deeper understanding of Liguria beyond the shoreline, and a sense of continuity that feels both rooted and alive.

Genoa

Genoa, a cultural and aesthetic treasure is coming into the spotlight, boasting the elegant Palazzo dei Rolli, exceptional museums, a lively local scene, and hometown heroes like the renowned architect Renzo Piano. His studio was selected to renovate the new waterfront area (below).

The city is one of the most exciting reasons to visit Liguria today, though many of the region’s charms are timeless — above all, the Mediterranean waters of the coast.